Lighting: | Likes lots of light - 2000 Lux is preferable. |
Temperature: | Zones 7-9, althought some of the dwarf cultivars can be grown as far north as zone 5. Can be successfully grown as an indoor plant; if this is done it should be kept at a temperature of 45-54 degrees in the winter to stimulate dormancy - the crape myrtle should dropits leaves. If it is exposed to a combination of warm temperatures and low light (as inside many houses in winter) the crape myrtle's new growth will be leggy and sappy. |
Watering: | Frequently in spring, moderately during the rest of the year. Reduce watering in winter and just before flowering to encourage bud formation. |
Feeding: | Every two weeks in spring-autumn. Alternate a general purpose plant food or bonsai food with a low nitrogen tomato fertilizer. |
Repotting: | Every 1-3 years in early spring to summer, most safely done before bud burst. Use basic soil mix. |
Styling: | The crape myrtle flowers at the ends of its shoots, so one must take care with pruning if flowering is desired. The safest method is to prune only in autumn, and in any case, a good autumn pruning will stimulate bud production for next year. Betsy recommends cutting the crape myrtle back severely, then allowing it to grow freely for a year to thicken the trunk. The next year, pinch the tree constantly to promote branch ramification. If pruning is discontinued shortly before the flowering period, it may still flower. May be wired from spring to autumn, taking care to protect the bark. The branches are delicate, however, and it is just as easy to shape through pruning due to the excellent branch ramification. |
Propagation: | From seed in spring, or by softwood cuttings in summer, which should be given rooting hormone and bottom heat. |
Pests etc.: | Powdery mildew, although mildew resistant varieties are available. Scale and aphids are other common problems. The plant will only flower during a warm, dry summer. |
================================================================= Subj: Re: Crape Myrtles 95-03-30 22:37:19 EDT From: Betsyemc@aol.com I live in SC and crape myrtles are every where. I have seen some gorgeous ones in bonsai. I had about seven or eight in various stages and sizes. My smallest is about 4-5 inches, my largest is about 16-18 inches. The first two leaves on the branch are tiny; if allowed to grow, the remaining leaves become quite large. If you are growing it out to thicken a limb, you can actually cut the leaf itself and make it smaller. Crepe myrtles thrive with heavy pruning. Last summer I experimented with them trying to see how long I could keep the new growth pinched back and still get blooms. I pinched until the local trees had flower buds fairly well formed and then quit. They bloomed quickly once I quit pinching. I had some fairly leggy growth while they bloomed, but I'm hoping to reduce this each year. Try this as another technique. Cut them back SEVERELY just before the leaf buds open. Let them grow undisturbed for the rest of the year in nursery pots or the ground. The next year, cut back severely again. Do this for a couple of years and you will have a good thick trunk with a good taper and lots of ramification. Then start the pinch, pinch, pinch and develop a canopy. Some of mine have a shiny silver bark, some are red barked and peeling. I love my crape myrtles. I work with both dwarf and reqular varieties. If you can, get a mildew resistant variety. They are prone to powdery mildew. Good luck Betsy
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